Whole Grain Sourdough
Baking A More Traditional Sourdough Bread
No knead bread baking is here to stay, but try this and tell me if you think it’s just better bread. The longer, slower proofing times really help bring out maximum flavor in the grains.
Ever since reading an article in the January 1995 issue of Smithsonian magazine touting Poilâne bread of Paris as “the world’s most-celebrated loaves”, I’ve wanted to experience for myself what all the fascination is about.
This is a bread that historian Steven Kaplan, in his book “Good Bread is Back”, describes as simple, delicious and famous: “Fleshy, tender, with a taste that lingers in the mouth, bursting with odors of spices and hazelnut.” A Poilâne style miche (round loaf) also graces the cover of Peter Reinhart’s “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice”. Reinhart spent time honing his craft in Paris and seems to have some inside knowledge on how it’s made.
Finally, for my birthday party in March (I called it my “bread-day party”), I joined the likes of Robert De Niro, Lauren Bacal, Steven Spielberg and the tens of thousands of mere mortals who are regular Poilâne customers and ordered one for myself and my guests to enjoy. I figured $48 for a loaf of bread was a bargain compared with a trip to Paris. Besides, these are monstrous loaves, weighing in at over four pounds. ( I can rationalize what I want with the best of ‘em. )
The bread was certainly excellent, although amongst my friends it received mixed reviews. Even though the late Lionel Poilâne felt the bread reached its peak of flavor three days after baking, I think it would have been better the same day. In any case, this got me started on trying to duplicate the recipe. A few attempts at Reinhart’s version resulted in a fine whole wheat bread, but I wasn’t able to come close to duplicating the Poilâne experience. I even sifted out some of the bran as suggested and used Normandy gray sea salt. “What?” you say, “Normandy sea salt isn’t the magic ingredient that will transform my ordinary bread into something world class?”
Now, I realize it’s pure hubris on my part to even think about duplicating Poilâne bread at home or anywhere else for that matter. I should at least have a wood fire brick oven to bake in. But I did ultimately meet a fellow amateur baker who spent 20 years in Paris and felt he had come extremely close to nailing the recipe. I agree.
I’ve posted his recipe, instructions and accompanying video here. Whether or not it approaches the supreme heights of Poilâne bread itself, I thought the results were fantastic. Certainly the best (mostly) whole grain bread I’ve baked and on par with some of the best whole grain bread I’ve had anywhere. I can hardly wait to get that wood fired oven built!
Start the recipe in the evening…
Evening of Day 1: Mix together:
- 200 grams (7 oz. or 7/8 cup) water
- 120g (4 oz. or 1/2 cup) sourdough starter
- 236 grams (8 1/3 oz or 2 cups) whole wheat flour
Ferment (let sit out at room temperature covered loosely with plastic) at 69F for 12 hours.
Morning of Day 2: Add to Day 1 ingredients:
- 274 grams (9 2/3 oz. or ~1 1/4 cup) water
- 85 grams (3 oz. or 7/8 cup) rye flour
- 250 grams (8 3/4 oz or 2 cups) white bread flour
- 170 grams (6 oz. or a tad over 1 3/4 cups) spelt flour
- 13 grams (scant tbs.) salt
Knead, place in plastic covered bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Morning of Day 3: Form a boule (round loaf) and ferment (let sit out on counter) 5 hours at 69F.
Bake at 485F for 40-45 minutes.
Notes: The recipe was created using grams for measurement. For those without a kitchen scale I have translated to ounces and cups. Some of the measurements don’t translate all that nicely, but what I have here is close enough.
Thanks to Franz Conrads for calculating the dough hydration levels in baker’s percentages terms for this recipe.
Don’t sweat the 69° proofing temperatures too much. If you come close, great, but I go with whatever my house temperature is at the time. If it’s summer and your house is very warm, do try and find the coolest spot you can. Temperature does impact results but unless you are running a bakery, you may enjoy the varying outcomes.
The original recipe calls for 20 grams of salt. Too much in my unqualified opinion. 13 works just fine. Feel free to experiment.
Regarding baking time and temperature, all ovens vary somewhat and you might have to make some adjustments here. After the first couple of times with this recipe, I found the bread baked just right in my La Cloche at 485 F for the first 30 minutes, then 10 more minutes at 450 with the lid off.
If you treasure “big holes” in the crumb, experiment with increasing the hydration. You’ll get a flatter loaf, but more open crumb.
Jan. 4, 2010 Update: Breadtopia reader, Wil, contributed this great recipe variation with herbs.
Here are some photos of the actual Poilâne loaf from my bread-day party…
Here’s a particularly gorgeous example of this bread by Jacquie of Aptos, California.